Posts Tagged ‘Metalworking’

Making an end fitting for the Callisto Table

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010

When I bought my Hardinge turret Lathe I wanted to use it to make a specific part. It turns out I use it all the time. The part I bought the lathe to make gets used in my Callisto table, Jupiter Bench, Mercury bench, Radian table, and Tangent liquor cabinet. It is a small rod end that allows me attach the stainless rods to the other table elements.

My supply exhausted, I set out to make a run for some pieces that I am currently building. The lathe features turret which indexes and allows me to perform multiple operations including turning the outside diameter, drilling holes, tapping threads. There is also a sliding cross-slide which faces the part and then cuts it off at the end.

Here is a view of the set-up

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In order to really understand the lathe I thought a video would be beneficial. This shows a complete cycle of making one rod end. My favorite moment is tapping the threads at the bottom of the hole. In this moment, the tap is fed into the work, it clutches into a freespin when it reaches the depth stop, at this point I throw the lathe into reverse and back it out, it is then thrown back into forward in order to be cut off. This all happens in a matter of seconds, not bad considering that the lathe is spinning at 1600 RPM’s! Here is a look

The part is then transferred to my multi-headed drill press. In this set-up one head has a drill bit and the other a procunier tapping head.

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I use a special vise to hold the part horizontally and drill the hole

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The part is then tapped with the Procunier tapping head. The head auto reverses when I pull up on the quill to back the tap out of the work. Another video is the best way to see this.

At the end of the day, I am restocked with plenty of end fittings

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Milling Aluminum Brackets for the Helium Dining Table

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

After I built the Torus Pedestal table I was still intrigued by the possibilities of creating joinery by milling chunks of aluminum. In designing a new dining table I chose to use a similar technique to create the joint where the leg meets the stretcher.

My first step was to mock up the bracket which I had drawn in my sketch book. The wood mock-up allows me to check proportions and really visualize the steps that are needed to create the bracket.
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I start with a large piece of aluminum It is 1 3/4″ thick, 8″ wide and 36″ long.
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Step one is cutting this massive chunk into more manageable pieces.

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Then I am back at my horizontal mill precisely squaring the blocks. In this photo you can really see the coolant and chips flying everywhere!
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The blocks are measured with a large micrometer.
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The Blocks have been squared up and now the vise is rotated and I change the cutters. The heavy cutting is about to begin.
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The chips build up quickly.
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The grooves get cut and then the remaining triangles are removed with a saw. You can see the offcuts on the right side of this picture.
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Next I am off to the vertical mill. This machine, made by bridgeport, is more accurate, but less powerful than the horizontal mill. Here I will refine the surfaces created by the mill and saw.
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The cutting begins
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A smaller Micrometer is used to measure the thickness accurately.
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Things are looking good.
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The bottom corners are roughed out on a saw, then put back on the horizontal mill for finishing. Check out how the chip gets peeled off as the cutter just breaks the edge of the metal.
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The brackets are getting close. Time for some drilling and tapping.
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The through holes are drilled and countersunk.
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The rest of the holes are drilled and tapped.
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And finally the before and after on the scales. Almost 4 lbs of metal removed- about half the weight!
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Next stop, building the rest of the table.

Polishing Stainless Bolts

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

If you have ever had the opportunity to see my furniture in person, you may have noticed that all of the exposed stainless steel fasteners have a great luster to them. This is a finish that I have to create on my own. It is done with a metal lathe and, although time-consuming, I feel the results are absolutely worth it.

Step One is turning with a carbide insert. This creates a perfectly flat surface and eliminates any odd surface marks.

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the next step is the polishing the surface with a fine grit sandpaper to further refine the finish

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The results are a handful of beauty!

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Hardinge Lathe Adventure

Friday, October 30th, 2009

One of the tools I use a lot for my work is a metal lathe. For many years I have owned a beautiful behemoth from 1959 made by Cincinnati You can do a lot of work with a big lathe, but it is not as convenient for smaller pieces. I have had my eye on a smaller machine to complement my big Cincinnati for the last year. I finally was able to purchase one- where? of course, eBay!

The lathe was located in Worcester Massachusetts. It had been owned by the recently closed United Screw Machine Products Inc. The son of the original owner was on hand and said their business had been primarily with Stanley in Connecticut. As Stanley has moved more and more manufacturing overseas, their business slowly shrank. The building was a beautiful classic brick factory.

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The Loading was done by a professional rigger who was on hand to load the rest of the machines which had been sold as a lot. I actually bought my lathe from the dealer who had bought the entire inventory of machines. Here the rigger backs down a steep ramp to get to my truck.
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My truck is loaded! Aside from the lathe, a drill press, maple work bench and a few other grimy goodies make it on the load. It actually turns out to be quite a load!
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The trip back to the shop is easy and I quickly offload it with my much smaller forklift. Here it is on the ground.
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…..And moved into place in the metal shop. You can just see the end of my bigger lathe in the lower left of this photo. The size of the Hardinge Lathe is just one thing. The real advantage is that it is set-up to do small runs of production parts. It features a rotating turret that allows you to rapidly move through numerous tools and perform different operations without changing tooling. It is going to be perfect to make the rod ends for pieces like my Callisto Table. I can’t wait to use it!
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Building the Torus Pedestal Table

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

I have been planning for some time to build a pedestal table to complement my Xenon Pedestal. The design I came up with references my Carbon hall table except that it uses an aluminum joint instead of the cast concrete joint that joins carbon’s legs to its top.

The design called for a 3″ square piece of aluminum which comes twelve feet long. It is quite substantial and about as much weight as I can comfortably carry on my own.

Here the profile of the joint to be is scribed in a red layout dye on the end of the aluminum chunk.

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The aluminum is roughly sawn to size on the table saw utilizing a special blade specifically designed to cut non-ferrous metals. This quickly hogs out a lot of material and creates a useable cutoff.
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Next stop is the horizontal mill, where the aluminum is precisely milled to size. The flood coolant helps prevent the chips from getting so hot that they weld themselves back to the part.
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This quickly generates a whole pile of chips!

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Next the mill is switched to a slab cutter utilizing the overarm. The 45ยบ face is milled.
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The fastening holes are drilled and tapped on the vertical mill and the results are: two finished parts

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The Brackets are eventually sanded and integrated into the table. The Torus table features a concrete base and stainless steel cables.

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The aluminum joint is a great addition to my repertoire, I will definitely be working this way again!

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